Oh my, how I love this city. A dear friend and colleague will be coming through with her family in April, and has discreetly messaged me to ask me if I have any restaurants to recommend. The typical answer would be “Look, there are thousands, it always depends on so many factors…” Yet indeed one spot always does come to mind, so – just to be sure – I went there today for lunch, as it was conveniently on my itinerary in the Latin Quarter.
The kind of place where the waiters know what they’re doing, the food is truly traditional French cooking, where the list of wines (their specialty) is always changing, where the locals come and they greet you at the door: a lovely lady in her 80s entered, with her cane, and received a peck on both cheeks by several of the black-aproned servers. They chatted at the entrance, and then she was given a choice seat, apparently her usual spot. In fact, you get a choice seat in the corner booth just because you’re company it seems, at least I did. It was just before 1 PM and then the place was bustling. And have you ever noticed how French people smile when they are seated, and also when they are served – a kind of smile that is a mixture of pleasant surprise and joy? Is it just la politesse? I don’t know, but it never fails to amaze me, and the sparkling mood today was contagious.
Instead of the glass of Pomerol I was about to order, the waiter recommended I try the Moulin à vent 2015 ‘l’Eolienne,’ which starting from the bouquet managed to lift my spirits, and I took his suggestion for the plat du jour, the Parmentier de canard à la sauce aux cêpes, so satisfying and served piping hot on a chilly day, utterly perfect. My dessert was the charlotte aux fruits rouges, light, tangy, and simply remarkable.
The owner is pleasant and a true professional. At the Chai de l’Abbaye it’s not about fancy tablecloths, (there are simple paper table coverings) and it’s not about flower arrangements, it’s a true local establishment for the businessmen and women in the area who appreciate dependable, high-quality victuals. The owner’s son manages a spin-off branch in my neighborhood, which also has great wines and a specialty of tartines and more modern, healthy choices (La Tartine, rue de Rivoli).
So Janet dear, I hope this helps. Anyone who would like to add suggestions for Janet, or other visitors, or for me, is most welcome to chime in below!